Ready to wear
Alexander Wang
High-end for the high-street
Originally from the Bay Area of San Francisco, Alexander Wang has a Chinese-American family heritage. He moved to New York at 18 and studied at the prestigious Parsons Design School where he interned for designers, including Derek Lam and Marc Jacobs. His designs are clean and pure, yet complex and quirky, with a strong street edge. He is based in New York City.
Andrew Gn
Fine tailoring, bows and floral touches
Hailing from Singapore, Andrew Gn (rhymes with pen), arrived in Paris to serve time at Emanuel Ungaro and Balmain before launching his eponymous label, which has been celebrated for fine tailoring cut from luxurious fabrics. His creations are not for the faint-hearted as his designs celebrate colour and flirt with fur, embroidery and appliqué.
Angelo Katsapis
Time to shine
Hailed as the designer to watch in 2008, Australian Angelo Katsapis worked as senior designer for Georgio Armani's womenswear and VIP clients and was responsible for the launch of the debut Armani Privé haute couture collection. Spring/summer 2008 saw him launch his own label where his show-stoppingly glamorous gowns crafted in hand-painted French fabrics and lined in silk have been grabbing international headlines.
Azzedine Alaïa
A Tunisian House in Paris
It was in 1980 that Tunisian born Azzedine Alaïa was awarded Best Designer of the Year by the French Ministry of Culture. From then on he was celebrated as the 'King of Cling', as Tina Turner, Madonna and Rachel Welsh stepped out in his seductive creations. Today Alaïa commands an international fashion empire from Paris where he has brought his atelier, two boutiques and an exclusive three-room hotel under one roof in the chic neighbourhood of le Marais.
Balmain
The new look revealed
Once the house of choice for Brigitte Bardot, Sophia Loren and Marlene Dietrich, Balmain fell into disrepair following the death of its founder Pierre Balmain in 1982. Its renaissance came in 2005 when Christophe Decarnin was crowned creative director and revived Balmain to once again appear on the red carpet, this time on a new generation of talent, which included Audrey Tatou and Sophia Coppola at the 2007 Cannes Film Festival.
Carlos Miele
Carolina Herrera
Fashion royalty
Carolina Herrera launched her eponymous fashion label in 1981, encouraged by legendary former editor of Vogue Diana Vreeland to give platform to her personal style. The Herrera look sprang from the spicy combination of a childhood spent in aristocratic Venezuela and as a young mother who had made it consistently onto the International Best Dressed List for nine years from 1971 in Manhattan. Herrera was initially inspired by Cristobal Balenciaga, and today her formidable fashion empire encompasses diffusion and perfume ranges.
Collette Dinnigan
Glorious gowns
In 1990 Collette Dinnigan launched her own label and by 1995 had become the first Australian-based designer to show a ready-to-wear collection in Paris. Famous for her handmade, embroidered, sparkling evening-wear, Dinnigan's achievements in the fashion industry have been recognised with countless awards; not least when she was honoured with a stamp issue by Australia Post as part of their Australian legends 2005 campaign.
Coquelicot
Derek Lam
Ship-shape design
After graduating from Parsons School of Design, Derek Lam spent twelve years at Micheal Kors before launching his own label in 2002. Like his mentor, Lam's fashion designs explore the boundaries of functional attire, and he is known to work with stiff fabrics that mould geometric silhouettes around the wearer's body. These are contrasted by pretty, feminine prints and shapes that accentuate waists and the female form.
Development by Erika Davies
Diane von Furstenberg
It's more than a wrap
Princess, Warhol model, jetsetting businesswoman, Studio 54 party girl, mother, grandmother, fashion icon and fashion mogul: Diane von Furstenberg wears all these mantles as comfortably as she wears the wrap dress that made her a fashion legend and an inspiration to women the world over. Of her spring/summer 2008 collection von Furstenberg says:'Called "Under the Volcano" it is the fantasy of every woman to escape to an exotic island. Inspired by Bali, it is free, beautiful and colourful'
Doma
To tame
Doma is the Spanish work for ‘tame’ and was born as a fashion label in 2002 in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Fresh detailing and innovative cuts have meant that the brand is now recognised as a world leader in leather design.
Elie Saab
Red carpet rules
Born in the flash of a camera bulb exploding, Elie Saab's fashion creations came to life for many on the night of 25 March 2002 when Halle Berry triumphed at the Academy Awards, emerging as the first African-American woman to win the Best Actress Oscar. Internationally celebrated for his couture and ready-to-wear, Saab has become the darling of the red carpet and a visionary pioneer of true glamour in the fashion world.
Erdem
Erica Davis
Erotokritos
Paris chic
Greek-Cypriot Erotokritos studied in San Francisco before settling in Paris and launching his label in 1994. Celebrated for his use of colour which embodies Parisian chic, by 1996 he had opened his first eponymous boutique. 2007 saw him open a second one in the trendy Marais District.
future classics
Giambattista Valli
Fashion superstar
After cutting his fashion teeth as senior designer at Krizia and fashion and prêt-a-porter art director at Emanuel Ungaro, Giambattista Valli was more than primed to launch his own label. By 2005 his creations were striding down the runway on a regular seasonal basis and celebrities such as Penelope Cruz, Mischa Barton and Victoria Beckham were being snapped in them on the red carpet. Flowing chiffon, striking shapes and fearless colours are Valli signatures setting him on an astral path of success.
Halston
Hari
Lifestyle apparel
With Madonna as a fan and Daisy Lowe modelling the spring/summer 2008 collection, Lainey Sheridan-Young’s active, sportwear brand Hari is the ultimate in fashionable active-lifestyle clothing. Lainey worked as a fashion stylist, PR and sales agent before launching her own British lifestyle collection whose mission is to provide clothing for any independent woman who wants to look good in one outfit that can be worn at the gym or the yoga class as well as during lunch or to a meeting.
Issa
Glamour girl
Daniella Issa Helayel, designer and founder of Issa, was born in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil and lived in New York for eights years before relocating to London in 2000. Her colourful signature is apparent in the unique prints and vibrant tones used to create her collections.
Karl Lagerfeld
Fashion history in the making
Throughout his career, an element of ‘Karl’ is visible in all Lagerfeld’s endeavours. His design collaborations read like a Who’s Who to the fashion world and include Balmain, Chloé, Fendi and Chanel. He has designed under his own name, while continuing to oversee the collections at other famous houses, since the early 1980s and his long career includes creating the show costumes for the tours of Madonna, Kylie Minogue and pursuing his passion for photography.
Katy Rodriguez
Art, architecture and fashion combine
San Francisco native Katy Rodriguez, had already co-founded renowned vintage store Resurrection in Los Angeles and New York, and designed a capsule collection with artist Raymond Pettibon, before launching her own eponymous fashion label in 2005. The launch collection featured dresses inspired by history, with modern interpretations. Use of rare silks and an architectural approach to tailoring ensured Rodriguez’s place as an established favourite with celebrities and the international fashion press.
Luella
Post-modern punk
After creating the Gisele bag with Stuart Vevers for Mulberry, Luella marked her own position at the cutting edge of fashion with collections given such memorable names as 'Daddy, I want a pony' and 'Daddy, who are the Clash?' Her fashion shimmers with the irreverence of the punk era: slogans and safety pins serving as reminders of an angry youth. But Luella's collections also possess a playful notion of fashion; the colour pink is always present in key pieces.
Maison Requiem
House of dreams
Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle teamed up to pursue a mutual fashion dream after several years of working at Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior and Costume National. They believe in the traditions of Parisian couture; paying meticulous attention to detail and the quality of fabrics and cuts. Requiem's mission is to marry what they believe to be two extremes: Haute Couture and industrialisation, and they achieve this through cut, style and tailoring.
Martin Grant
An Australian in Paris
Martin Grant departed from his native Melbourne, Australia in 1990 bound for London where he joined Idol before learning the art of bespoke tailoring from Koji Tatsuno. Two years later he arrived in Paris and by 1996 had opened his first outlet and Lauren Hutton and Cate Blanchett became fans and customers. Grant's designs celebrate the art of fine tailoring and he loves to strike a balance between sharp geometric, sometimes military, lines rendered in a palette of neutral shades and emphasizing the body's natural curves.
Mayle
Chain mail
Former model Jane Mayle opened her eponymous boutique in New York's NoLita neighbourhood in 1999. Despite her lack of retail experience Mayle's collection flew out the door and trend setters such as Sofia Coppola began to flock to her for delicate dresses, woollen cardies and sweet cotton tops. The spring/summer 2008 collection is inspired by the colour and flowers of Mexico from pinaidas to funerals.
McQ
McQueen on trend
You can always trust Alexander McQueen to be on-trend and fashion-forward, but his spring/summer 2008 diffusion line McQ is also a timely comment on 2008 as the year of the Olympic Games being held in Beijing. The collection is inspired by the spirit of competition and wearing McQ this season means literally sporting gymast dresses for girls or hoodies for boys. Many looks are emblazoned with the Olympian motif or rhythmic gymnasts. Shine on.
Missoni
Close knit family
A legendary love story between Ottavio and Rosita Missoni has spawned a fashion empire now three generations and a home-wear line old. The first Missoni collection walked down the runway in 1966 and was celebrated for its unique knitwear and textile patterns. Today this signature style has evolved under the influence of their daughter Angela who designs it and given birth to a perfume range fronted by granddaughter Margherita Missoni.
Monique Lhuillier
Belle of the Ballgown
Founded in 1996, Monique Lhuillier took the bridal industry by storm with her high fashion gowns. Five short years later, her ready-to-wear collection was launched and Lhuillier became a firm favourite with stylists and celebrities the world over. Having dressed Jennifer Lopez, Halle Berry, Angelina Jolie, Meg Ryan, Sarah Jessica Parker, Sharon Stone and Teri Hatcher among many others, Lhuillier's glamorous dresses have proved popular thanks to their classic elegance and enduring sense of style.
Nathan Jenden
Star in the ascendant
Nathan Jenden was educated at Central St Martins and the Royal College of Art in London. He went on to work with John Galliano and Daryl K before becoming creative director at Diane von Furstenberg, a position he holds today. His striking, bold and dramatic designs have won him many admirers in the press and the fashion scene. He lives in New York.
Oscar de la Renta
The Oscar of fashion
Following an apprenticeship with renowned Spanish couturier Cristóbal Balenciaga and time as couture assistant at Lanvin in Paris, Oscar de la Renta made New York his home and from there launched his eponymous label which today spans ready-to-wear, accessories, fragrances, cosmetics, home-wear and more. He is twice winner of the CFDA Womenswear Designer of the Year and was honored with a CFDA Lifetime Achievement Award in 1990. De la Renta is internationally celebrated for his glamorous gowns and chic daywear.
Ossie Clark
Paul & Joe
Pioneering French chic
Parisian Sophie Albou named her fashion label after her two sons Paul & Joe when she launched the line in 1995. What started as a menswear collection expanded to womenswear two years later and in 2007, Albou celebrated a decade of international success as a womenswear designer whose fans include Kate Moss, Cameron Diaz and Helena Christensen. Quintessentially French, Paul & Joe is loved by women who adore Albou's chic sense of style and pioneering attitude to fashion every season.
Phillip Lim
The one to watch
Following the launch of his debut collection in 2005, Phillip Lim was immediately recognised as the designer to watch with the clothes to wear. His work was snapped up by top international buyers and by 2007 he was honoured with the CFDA Swarovski Award for emerging talent in womenswear design. His strengths include sweet dresses that carry girls from working day to evening glamour and cleverly tailored coats and knits to dress down vibrant minis and sparkly baby-dolls.
T Bags
T for two
Designers Shadi Askari and Su-Lyn Tay launched their label as a handbag range in 2000, but it was the mesmerising prints of their voluminous jersey dresses that really caught the attention of the international fashion world. Their success is in their versatility: a T-bags design is comfortable enough to wear casually during the day with flats but is easily glammed up with the addition of a pair of heels for something a little more red carpet.
Taka
International appeal
Izmir native Tania Eskinazi left Turkey to study fashion at FIT in NY and then lived in Los Angeles and Amsterdam where she developed the idea of a collection based on Ottoman and Turkish heritage with European fashion awareness and American spirit. Combining elements from three continents gave her work international appeal and, based once again in Izmir, Eskinazi created Taka to mix history, art and quality in beautiful womenswear.
Temperley
Fashion legend
Specialising in fabric technology and print, Alice Temperley's collections stand out for their glamour, craftsmanship and poetic beauty. Since graduating from London's Central St Martins College of Art and Design, Temperley has built up an internationally respected fashion empire and was recently named one of Britain's top 30 businesswomen. Her dresses are often snapped at red carpet events and Scarlett Johannson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Sarah Jessica Parker, Charlize Theron, Natalie Portman, Julia Roberts count amongst her fans.
Thomas Wylde
Wylde about fashion
Thomas Wylde is the fictitious creation of ex-model Paula Thomas. The label is loved for its signature skull print motif, available on jersey dresses, sneakers and bags. Thomas brings imbues her chic designs, which include figure hugging leather gear with biker attitude to produce a collection that is the darling of some modern day rock'n'roll girls such as Lindsay Lohan and Kate Hudson.
Tibi
Pretty in print
It was Amy Smilovic's artist father who inspired her creativity to launch a fashion brand. She was living in Hong Kong in 1997 when Tibi was born, but has since moved back to the USA where she runs the business from Manhattan with her husband. Tibi collections are inspired by Smilovic's travels through Asia and Europe and her pieces are a vibrant expression of her love of colour and eye for detail.
Twenty8twelve
More than a date
If one sister is a fashion designer with a reputation crafted on the tailoring rooms of Matthew Williamson, Anya Hindmarch and Shanghai Tang, and the other sister is a style icon and cover girl, it was perhaps inevitable that Savannah and Sienna Miller joined forces to launch their own fashion label twenty8twelve in 2007. The abstract name refers to Sienna's birth date, but there is nothing abstract about their on-trend collection.
Vanessa Bruno
Unmistakable
Vanessa Bruno grew up in fashion; her father founded the French fashion house Emmanuelle Khan and her mother was a Danish model in the 1960s. Since launching her eponymous label at the age of 24, Bruno has become famous for blending materials to result in unique effects. Boiled wool, cotton and knits are just some of the textiles Bruno uses to create clothes that empower women. Fans include Nicole Kidman, Gwyneth Paltrow and Vanessa Paradis.
Vera Wang
Bridal bliss
Vera Wang trained as a figure skater and then held a senior fashion editor position at Vogue for 16 years before launching her own line from a salon in New York's Carlyle Hotel selling what were to become her trademark bridal gowns. Wang's clients are as glittering a crowd as one of her creations. She is responsible for the wedding dresses of, amongst others, Mariah Carey, Jennifer Lopez, Jessica Simpson, Victoria Beckham, Sharon Stone, Uma Thurman and Holly Hunter.
Zac Posen
The House of Z
Zav Posen's fashion star has been meteorically ascending since he won first the backing of Sean Combs in 2004 and his first major runway show in the same year which resulted in the award for the CFDA Swarovski-Perry Ellis Award for Ready-to-Wear. 'Intelligent, flirtatious, femininity had emerged', commented Posen on his early success. And so had Zac and his enigmatic House of Z.
